A good night's sleep, being woken at 4am by some noisy oyster catchers. Oyster catchers? What are they doing here, and pre-dawn?
By 6.30 the sun is streaming into the tent, but because we are legitimate campers there is no need to pack up and head off. The cafe in Appleby opens at 9, so don't need to move until after 8.30
So time for a leisurely coffee and to dry the tent off in the warm sunshine. The oyster catchers return. The soil is so good that they can forage for worms, which explains why the tent pegs went in so easily last night
We set off in bright sunshine. The hill that seemed so long in descending last night is climbed with ease,
and we are soon in Appleby Bridge. Breakfast at Bojangles. I opt for scrambled eggs with smoked salmon. This comes with slices of fresh tomato, which works surprisingly well. Dylan tries to put some brown sauce on his breakfast roll but selects the sachet of vinegar, which is a subtly different shade of brown. The young girl behind the counter quietly dissolves into fits of laughter. Apparently it's a regular occurrence. It's certainly a lifelong learning journey
We cross the river Eden, and are now heading broadly northwards. It's the warmest day of the trip so far. No jacket, no fleece, just a cycling top and summer gloves. I'm keeping on my leg-warmers for the moment though
Eden Vale is a gentle landscape, but you never know when the route might launch itself into the surrounding hills. But for the moment we follow the low ground along the edge of the Pennine hills
Which brings us to Dufton, which Dylan passed through as a child walking the Pennine Way
Fast forward 55 years. My, hasn't he grown!
The air traffic control station on top of Great Dun Fell. This is a bit of a destination for cyclists wanting to test their legs on the 630m climb to the top. It's a beautifully smooth road, with minimal traffic; but unremittingly steep. Our legs were not in the mood for such testing today
In fact, it's a relatively gentle morning and we are relishing this change from the usual hard slog. Also noticeable is the insect life. Lots of direct hits as we ride, and also flies that are looking to hitch a free ride. That this is unusual shows how much insect life has been decimated in recent decades. As kids, no walk would be complete without an accompanying swarm of bluebottles and assorted friends
But still remembering to stop for tea and biscuits, here outside Kirkland church,
and finish off drying the flysheet. Blencathra in the background looking surprisingly close
Lunch is had at the old village bakery in Melmerby. We opt for Panninis which come with salad and chips. One thing about this sort of trip is that it is impossible to eat too much. I even take the opportunity for a shave in the toilets. One must maintain standards!
I have now discarded the leg-warmers and am riding in just shorts and t-shirt. It feels great
We have been climbing steadily since lunchtime. Today sees the highest point on our whole route, as we cross over Hartside Moor.
Near the summit, our small country lane eventually joins the A686. With extensive views over the Vale of Eden to the mountains of the northern Lake District; to the Solway Firth, and the Scottish hills beyond
Finally at the top! From here it's a speedy five mile descent to Alston, so we layer back up with warm clothing
Alston is the highest town in England. Cobbles Cafe is the best cafe in Cumria, next to the shop claiming to sell the best marmalade in the world.
Excellent coffee, with our choice of cake or scone with jam and cream
Our route now follows the South Tyne, along quiet roads and an old railway, to Haltwhistle
The long threatened rain finally arrives on this section. But we have been very lucky to date with the weather, so can't complain. We have crossed many high and exposed sections that could have been very bleak given wind and/or rain
We really want to be going over the Lambley viaduct, it would save two climbs and one descent. Post ride research suggests that we could have done this
Our plan had been to stock up with supplies at Haltwhistle and camp in the wilds north of Hadrians Wall. The rain has stopped, but the forecast for tomorrow is wet. So the more dry miles that we can do today, means less wet miles tomorrow
However, by the time we get to Twice Brewed we are ready to stop. On finding there is free space in the youth hostel our decision is made. Tonight we will have beds, get showers, and generally cleaned up
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